Donkey Crossing

Welcome to Donkey Crossing! Donkey Crossing is an on-line account of one Limey and one Yank living one Dream. From September 2006 until the end of 2007, we plan to visit friends and family on five continents and immerse ourselves into various cultures, natural phenomena and ways of life. We hope you enjoy our tales and visit often! Cheers, Jason and Rachel Napoli

Saturday, October 20, 2007

Onward Toward Amritsar and Agra:
Home of the Golden Temple and Taj Mahal

After three unforgettable weeks in McLeod Ganj visiting our mate Bobby and immersing ourselves in the community, it was time for us to move on. With much of India still to explore, and only a week before our flight to the United Arab Emirates, we had to be selective in which sites to visit.

A trip to India would not be complete without a visit to the Taj Mahal. Built by the Moghul emperor Shah Jahan as a mausoleum for his fourteenth wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the Taj Mahal has become the world's most famous shrine to eternal love. It is a long haul from McLeod Ganj, so we decided to break the journey spending a night close to the Indian-Pakistan border in the city of Amritsar. The Sikh holy city and home to the gorgeous Golden Temple, Amritsar was an unexpected highlight on our travels through India.


The Sikh faith is omnipresent in Amritsar, with the wearing of turbans and long flowing beards a distinct cultural characteristic.

The Indian-Pakistan border is an attraction in itself, with a nightly border closing ceremony with as much patriotism and excitement as a World Cup football match.

The border crossing between India and Pakistan is located at the village of Wagha, a pleasant rural area of flat green fields. The only visible sign of the tension between the two nations is the barbed wire, high voltage electric fences separating them.


Two military officers at the border keeping the peace "at hand".

These three Sikh gentlemen observe a colorful display of enthusiastic marching and cheering from the raucous crowd below them during the border closing ceremony.

After our evening witnessing the traditions of the Wagha border crossing, we woke up the next morning to explore the Golden Temple, the spiritual center of the Sikh faith. Sikhism is India's youngest religion and two of its main tenets are earning by honest means and giving to charity. With modern India still practicing the tradition of classifying individuals by caste, the Sikh faith looks beyond differences and welcomes visitors of all faiths, backgrounds and castes.

The Golden Temple is a gigantic marble and gold complex, with the lustrous Harmandir the primary focal point at the center of this large, man made lake.

One of the rules before entering the temple complex is to remove shoes, wash feet and cover the head. The streets surrounding the temple are full of touts selling bandanas, scarves and other head covering accessories.

The grounds are carefully patrolled by colorfully dressed guards equipped with stern looks and a long sword.

The holy waters of the Golden Temple complex are open to pilgrims wishing to take a dip.

A must for every visitor to the Golden Temple is a meal in the Guru-ka-Langar, the giant communal dining hall. The communal dining room reinforces the Sikh belief of equality, and welcomes everyone, regardless of creed, gender, class or color. Sharing a meal with strangers is a powerful expression of the Sikh commitment to equality.

The volunteers at the Guru-ka-Langar serve over 10,000 meals a day and thousands of pilgrims line up around the clock to get their fill. We were the only Westerners during our seating and enjoyed the basic meal of rice, lentils and chapati (a flat Indian bread).


A visit to the gigantic kitchen is an impressive sight. This woman is pictured flipping chapatis at one of the many grills.

We couldn't help noticing the lack of Western visitors at the Golden Temple. Although we didn't find the absence of large tour groups problematic, we were unable to escape the uninhibited staring, pointing and camera lenses directed our way by local pilgrims. At times we felt like the main attraction of the complex, as large families and groups would stop in their tracks to stare at the solitary Western couple sitting against the beautiful marble structures. Many people approached us with their cameras, taking close up portraits without even muttering a word. We graciously waved and greeted our newly found fans, and even joined in the fun for some photos of our own.

This group of young men surrounded us as we took photos of the gilded Harmandir in the center of the lake. When we asked one of the men to take a photo of us, it was interpreted as all the men gather around Jason and get in the shot. Rachel happily snapped a photo of me and the dozen strangers-cum-mates.

Our visit to Amritsar and the Golden Temple was a short one, but extremely memorable. We felt inspired by the Sikh tradition of welcoming visitors from all walks of life.

The Golden Temple complex shimmering at nightfall.

From Amritsar, we journeyed on to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. We had anticipated a 17 hour train through the night from Amritsar, although our journey ended up taking 25 hours. With our patience at an all time high after 13 months on the road, we accepted the various delays in stride and were glad to finally arrive to the unmistakable landmark of eternal love.

Our first sight of the Taj Mahal was certainly a familiar one, but awe inspiring all the same.

We knew it would be impossible to avoid crowds at the Taj, but were pleasantly surprised that the grand scale of the building and grounds seemed to dilute any sense of overcrowding.

Sikhs in Agra seemed just as curious about us as Sikhs in Amritsar, and these lovely gentlemen asked to be photographed with Jason the smiley Westerner.

Requests for photographs seemed to be a theme during our final few days in India, and these military officers were keen to get in on the photo frenzy. One soldier asked me to hold his rifle during the shot, but I carefully declined.

Two eternal lovers in front of "the tear on the face of eternity".

This procession of local women is particularly colorful against the white marble of the Taj Mahal.

A glimpse from the impressive mosque located to the west of the Taj Mahal.

The ornate detail of semi-precious stones inlaid in the marble is present on many buildings in the area.

Our quick 24 hour visit to Agra provided us with a great visit to the Taj Mahal and readied us for our imminent journey to New Delhi, the final stop on our travels through India. In addition to some final souvenir shopping, we found time for plenty of excellent curries, a Bollywood film and a visit to the National Museum of Modern Art during our time in Delhi.


A quick pose with Gandhi in the courtyard of the National Gallery.

Our time in India quickly came to an end and we couldn't have asked for a better experience. From trekking across the Indian Himalaya, being in the presence of the Dalai Lama, visiting a dear friend and seeing sacred sites such as the Golden Temple and Taj Mahal, we left the country fulfilled.

Next stop: The United Arab Emirates and a quick visit to our old friends Ida and Emilio.

1 Comments:

Blogger Matt said...

What?! No recap of the Bollywood film? I suppose you're tiring of my incessant requests, but I can't help but armchair travel and backseat edit...

This series of photos may be some of the best yet. The border crossing shots were phenomenal, the bright saris against the white stone brilliant and Jason surrounded by Sikh men, the American turned monument/tourist attraction, is true irony.

I'm picking up another theme from all your travels now: the monumental mixed with the mundane, or should I say the human scale of things, a kind of prolonged gaze of wonder at the variety of the world, without overt judegement, just quizical expession tinged with respect and a bit of amusement. Throughout this blog your point of view has only gotten stronger.

12:39 PM  

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